Earlier this year I visited London for work, having manifested an international work trip for the first time ever. Reader, I did it again! I visited Lausanne, Switzerland for four days in December, during the early winter. I was working, so my four days in town was really more like a three day winter visit in Lausanne. While planning my trip, I had trouble finding out what Lausanne was like during the early winter months, and how much I could do if I did not ski. With the Christmas markets, museums, and plenty of raclette, the truth is there is a lot to do in Lausanne for a three day winter visit! Read on for more details.
Lausanne 3 Day Winter Visit: Overview
Lausanne is a city about 45 minutes from the Geneva airport, easily reachable by train. Lausanne is in the Vaud canton (state or province), with French as the predominant language and the Swiss Franc (CHF) as the currency. Lausanne is famous for being the home of the International Olympics Committee, and also the starting point for the Lavaux Vineyards, a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Three days is just enough to see Lausanne and explore the region, especially in winter. You can add time if you are there in the summer and have plans to visit several vineyards. In the winter, you could add time to go skiing, although I think you would more likely be staying closer to a ski resort than Lausanne.
Day 1: Olympic Museum, Cathedral and Christmas Markets
Day 2: Lavaux Vineyards, Christmas Markets
Day 3: Montreux, Chateau de Chillon, Montreux Christmas Markets
Day 0
To reach Lausanne, you are likely flying into the Geneva International Airport (GVA) in the evening. From the airport, it is incredibly easy to get a train to Lausanne. Even in the winter, Lausanne is easily reachable from Geneva.
The train station is connected to the airport, and there are something like 80 trains a day to Lausanne. Be sure to select the full fare for the ticket, unless you have a Swiss Rail Pass. For a three day trip, this will not likely be cost effective. The ride should take between 45 minutes if direct, and an hour if there are stops.
Once you reach the Lausanne Station, you can continue on to your hotel via cab, Uber, or the subway. You can also walk. For hashtag Reasons, my first hotel was full so I walked at midnight to another hotel and felt incredibly safe.
This was confirmed by a woman at the work meeting. I commented that the walk from her office to the parking garage was not lit and so dark, and she said Lausanne is incredibly safe. The Swiss are also very eco-conscious and do not want to light up streets if they don’t need to! (She also was stunned by Times Square in NYC and how much electricity that consumed! But I digress)
Day 1
You probably arrived in the evening and were able to get a good night’s sleep. Before you head out for the day, be sure to ask the front desk for the Lausanne Transport Card. This card gives you free transit on buses, trains and metro within Lausanne city all the way to Lavaux Epesses, paid for by the tourist tax. It also includes discounts to many museums and activities, including the Olympic museum. See the offers via PDF on the Lausanne Tourisme site.
Morning
Like many European cities, Lausanne has many bakeries or patisseries around town so you can grab a café, croissant or un sandwich for breakfast as you walk around. On my first morning, I walked around my neighborhood and then went to work. Hopefully your morning is more enjoyable.
I suggest taking the metro to the Olympic Museum. Everyone else that visited enjoyed spending a few hours here. The metro to the museum is free with transport card, and you get a four franc discount. 16 CHF, children under 15 free.
Afternoon
Walk up a cobbled hill to see the Lausanne Cathedral, discounted two francs with your transport card to 3 CHF. The views from the top of the hill are terrific, and you’ll find yourself in a charming Old Town neighborhood to give you that sense of old town Europe.
Evening
Winter is the time of the Christmas Markets, and Lausanne has several markets spread throughout town known as Bo Noël. You will find several, including one with a Ferris Wheel at the top of the town near the Cathedral. Or you can wander back down to the city center for others.
While at the markets, sip on vin chaud (hot mulled wine). Many markets give you reusable Christmas ceramic mugs for a small deposit. The Lausanne markets do not have a reusable mug, but do have a reusable plastic cup with a winter scene on it. I think I paid 9 CHF for a mulled wine in a reusable cup with a shot of rum on top, although I had to look that up on my credit card statement and then do math so grain of salt etc.
In general I don’t love mulled wine, but this was fantastic. Winter markets also have plenty to eat as well, like an Insta-worthy raclette sandwich, savory or sweet crepes, chimney rolls, sandwiches and more. Christmas markets are THE go-to experience when visiting Europe in the winter, so make sure you enjoy them in Lausanne, too.
Day 2
Morning
Start your morning with a brisk walk down to the lake from your hotel, stopping for some coffee to warm you up on the way. The lake in question is Lake Geneva or known locally as Lac Léman.
In the summer, people swim and boat on the lake but in the winter you’ll find mostly ducks enjoying the water. The southern edge of the lake is actually France, including the town of Evian, backed by the wondrous French Alps. The northern edge of the lake stretches along the famous Lavaux vineyards, which we’ll visit today.
The Lavaux Vineyards are renowned as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Originally thought to be built by Trappist monks, the vineyards comprise 30 kilometers along the shore of the lake, stretching up into the hills via terraced retaining walls. Over 180 families still make wine here, including a local appellation of a wine white, chasselas.
We stopped at the Vinorama first on the suggestion of a coworker. Vinorama is a tasting room for dozens of wineries that offers tastings and education.
Visiting the vineyards in the winter is possible – although you might not get to try every vineyard that you want. Many close after the October harvest until the spring. The calendar on the Lavaux site lists opening hours, although in the winter I recommend calling ahead. I wrote more about how to visit the Lavaux Vineyards region in the winter, including where to stay.
Even if you don’t have dozens of wineries to choose from, that shouldn’t stop you from enjoying a walk in the terraces of Lavaux. While planning my trip, I was overwhelmed by all of the options of potential hikes and walks in the area.
In reality, it’s simple:
- Pick a town that you want to take a train or bus to. Cully, Grandvaux and Epesses are all on a train line directly from Lausanne station and free with your transport card. Expect to spend 20-25 minutes on a train. If you want to venture further, purchase a train ticket.
- Get off the train and head uphill. You’ll see steps cut into the terraces or curvy roads back and forth that you can walk along.
- If you find an open vineyard, great! Stop for wine.
- If you bring some water, and pick up cheese/snacks ahead of time you can walk even longer.
- If you don’t, walk until you are tired and then catch a train or bus back home.
When I visited, we had a perfect bluebird day with weather around 50 degrees – not what I was expecting for winter in Lausanne. We stopped first at Vinorama for a guided tasting and cheese, a large tasting room with 300+ bottles from the area. Then we walked around for a few hours, enjoying the views of the hills, mountains and lakes. We took a bus full of schoolchildren back home. A perfect day!
Evening
Back in Lausanne, head back to the Christmas markets for more mulled wine and cheese. You could also head to Cafe du Grutli for some pure cheese overload. This traditional Swiss restaurant was mentioned in Rick Steves, and features ski funicular cars that you can dine in! We had fondue and more fondue.
Day 3
Morning
Today we are heading out of town for a little adventure to Montreux. Montreux is a small town on the opposite side of Lake Geneva and the Lavaux vineyards, in the “Montreux Riviera.” Just outside Montreux is the Chateau de Chillon, a medieval castle made famous by Lord Byron.
To reach the chateau, you can take a train or bus to Montreux Veytaux. I took public transit on Swiss Rail SBB and was able to purchase a combo rail/museum ticket for 20% off. If you are staying in Montreux, they also have a free transport card with discounts to the Chateau. Expect to pay 10-15 CHF for admission into the chateau. The chateau has special Christmas programming on the weekends in December, which may require advanced tickets.
The chateau also has an audio guide for 6 CHF, which seemed a little steep to me but the content helped set the place and tone for my visit. The guide takes you through the medieval castle and explains how it has been expanded over time, from a simple outpost to the home of the Savoy family. The Savoys (yes that Savoy) were the rulers of this area for hundreds of years.
In the winter, expect to spend one to two hours at the chateau, and make sure to bundle up. Since it’s a medieval castle, it is not known for its warm interiors. Bundle up, and bring an umbrella.
Afternoon/Evening
More Christmas Markets! If the Lausanne Christmas market is intended to be more modern and sustainable, the Montreux market is more traditional. The entire lakefront of town is full of small wooden huts, Christmas lights, and even carolers. If you are visiting Lausanne in the winter, the half hour trip to Montreux is worth it for this market.
I loved the vin chaud at this market, which did come in a reusable coffee mug. I paid 2 CHF for the mug, and 5 CHF for refills, so the wine was practically free. I also availed myself of more raclette, crepes, a delicious ham and cheese sandwich, and warm chestnuts. I was 90% cheese by the end of this trip.
Neither Christmas market had a lot of handmade goods for sale, which surprised me. I still spent several hours by myself enjoying the food, drinks, and sights of the markets. To reach the Montreux market, you can take the bus or train to any Montreux station, and walk towards the lake.
Other activities in Lausanne for a three day winter visit
If you want to skip any of the activities above, or want to get out and explore more, here are some ideas of other ways to spend your time
Boat Ride on Lake Geneva
I can only imagine how terrific this is in the summer! In the winter, however, it seemed a little too cold for me. Daily ferries criss-cross the lake, even in winter, from Lausanne down to Montreux, or even over to Evian, France. Harbor cruises also take you out on the lake, and down the shore towards to see the hills of Lavaux in their glory.
Day trip to Gruyeres
Gruyere cheese is the local cheese and I desperately wanted to take a cheese and chocolate tour to try it. Several day trip tours go to the town of Gruyere to see how this cheese is made, with tastings along the way. I had Gruyere in many raclette and fondue meals, and I WISH I had time to go straight to the source.
Day trip to Geneva
You’re likely flying in and out of Geneva, so it’s up to you if you need a separate day trip there. Most people I talked to who spent time in Geneva said it wasn’t really worth it. However, it is an international headquarters of Europe so you might find yourself there. You know what…with the train fare you’re better off skipping this and eating more cheese.
Day trip to see the Mountains
Lausanne is at the foothills of the Swiss Alps, so you could take a train to see some of the highest peaks in the area. In fact, the winter is THE time to enjoy these peaks since you can also ski while you are there! (Editor: Laura doesn’t ski, don’t listen to her)
- To see the Matterhorn, Zermatt is about 2.5 hours away by train, with several per day. Zermatt has some very cool cable cars and old timey cogwheel trains to get you up past the clouds to see the peaks in the area. You can also hike or ski from Zermatt.
- To see the Eiger, Jungfrau and Monch (Ogre, Maiden and Monk), visit the Jungfrau region via Interlaken and Grindelwald. Interlake is also 2.5 hours away via train.
- To see Mont Blanc, take a train to Chamonix. This is, as you guessed it, 2.5 hours away. You will pass through Geneva, so it may make sense to take this day trip from there instead.
Where to stay in Lausanne for a three day winter visit
I actually stayed at two hotels while in Lausanne, because I had to planes/trains/automobiles myself there and my first hotel night was canceled. I found myself calling hotels at midnight to find a place. So…don’t be me!
Mid-range
I stayed in the Flon district at the Ibis Styles MadHouse (from $160) for one night, and the Moxy Lausanne City (from $180) for three nights. I actually preferred the Ibis because, though the room was smaller, it had a coffee pot, came with water and a snack, and the staff was nicer. The Moxy got me Marriott nights, had USB ports that worked, and a larger room. The plaza outside was very loud at night; reviews said to ask for a room not facing the plaza.
I would categorize both hotels as Upper Budget to Mid-range hotels. They cater to more budget-conscious travelers with small rooms and few amenities, but those that want something more than a hostel. Both have robust social scenes and bars.
The Flon district was newer, and seemed a little hipper than the Old Town. It was right on the metro, had Christmas markets nearby, plus tons of bars. I cannot stress how many bars were nearby. I would probably prefer to stay closer to the water or Old Town in the future.
Upscale to Luxury
Other coworkers stayed at the Hotel de la Paix (from $250), which was way nicer and had two restaurants attached. It also had terrific views of the lake and mountains, as it’s up on a hill in the Old Town.
The Royal Savoy Hotel & Spa (from $400) looked stunning. I wish I could have stayed there. It’s down closer to the lake and I heard from friends that it’s amazing. A lot of the blogs I read before visiting recommended their day spa as the best in the city.
I walked by the Chateau d’Ouchy (from $300) on the shores of Lake Geneva. It’s a converted castle for $300 a night. I cannot believe I did not book this hotel – the only way it could be more Hi Friends is if it came with an audio tour. In the winter, this area of Lausanne seemed a much quieter option for your visit since it’s so much colder. I can imagine this being an amazing place to stay in the summer.
When I walked by the Grand Hotel Suisse Majestic by Marriott’s Autograph Collection…I died. Truly. It’s the Grand Budapest Hotel come to life. The only problem is that it is in MONTREUX. When you search the Marriott site for Lausanne it comes up and I almost booked it, but it is in MONTREUX. So if you are staying in Montreux to go to the Christmas markets and the chateau, stay here!!!! Let me live vicariously through you.
Budget
If you’re looking for a budget option during a winter trip to Lausanne, staying in a hotel or hostel is the way to go over a homestay, since you’ll automatically get a transport card with your stay. I only saw three listings on VRBO, and the only centrally located option had no reviews so I won’t link to it. The Youth Hostel Jeunotel (from $50) in Lausanne does not seem to have an age limit, although you do need to be a Swiss Hostel Member. The Tulip Inn (from $125) is connected to the convention center and is a step up.
Other Pro Tips
The thing to buy in Lausanne is chocolate. There are several chocolatiers in the area, although I ended up buying Villiers chocolate bars at the local Fooby grocery store. I loved this store – it was sort of a Whole Foods/PCC with prepared fresh food etc. I got a salad and some chicken and loved it. The chocolate bars were about 3 CHF each. Duty Free at the Geneva Airport has a similar selection.
Conclusion
I hope you found this itinerary three day visit helpful for when you visit Lausanne for a winter trip.
[…] I spent the day in Lausanne on a beautiful winter day with bluebird skies and sunshine during the day, and the warm glow of Christmas markets at night. I spent my morning getting coffee and a chocolate treat from Sleepy Bear Coffee near the train station, before walking down to the shores of Lake Geneva. In the summer, you can take a boat or play in this shimmering lake. In the winter, the only warm way to enjoy the lake is a boat or ferry trip across it. […]