Happy National Parks week! To celebrate, I’m recapping my February, 2023 trip to The Big Island, Hawaii. Is this the ultimate itinerary to The Big Island Hawaii and the five national park sites on the island? Nope. Is this the penultimate itinerary even? Also probably nope. This might not even crack the top ten, and to call it a itinerary is probably being generous. I don’t know, I’m only on the first paragraph of a multi-hour writing exercise; suffice it to say it’s too early to say where it ranks in the ultimate itinerary rankings. What this is, however, is my five day itinerary to The Big Island, Hawaii, and the five national parks sites for a solo, national-parks obsessed traveler. Did I say ultimate guide, itinerary, Big Island, and national parks enough to rank for SEO? Also too early to say.
In late January, I had one of those “am I incredibly depressed or is it just unendingly gray in Seattle” kinds of days. People ask me all the time if it really rains that much in Seattle. YES YES IT DOES, and it rains that much from September until June, so January is the grayest of gray months. I decided I really really needed some sunshine. I dug up reservation details to an ill-fated trip to Cabo, and was weighing Cabo or Hawaii or just visiting Florida with my parents…again. The travel gods smiled down upon me that night, as Alaska Airlines came out with a percent-off fare sale that included Hawaii. Why, yes, I would like to GTFO of Seattle for less than $400. I booked that fare sale faster than any trip in my entire life. Less than two weeks later I was on my way (first class, thank you MVP Gold) to The Big Island.
There was no rhyme or reason to me selecting TBI except that I’d already been to Oahu, Kona was included in the fare sale, and I knew there was a national park on the island. As luck would have it, TBI is the favorite island of a lot of my friends, who all shared their recommendations with me. Their recommendations helped me craft what was a national park filled, packed five day itinerary on The Big Island of Hawaii.
Where I Stayed
I stayed at the Courtyard King Kamehameha’s Kona Beach Marriott in Kona, right in the heart of “downtown” Kailua-Kona on points, in a single room with a slight ocean view if I leaned out on the balcony and looked to the side. With a buy-four-nights-get-one-free points promo, I paid 160,000 points for five nights, or average 32K points per night. The other Marriott Bonvoy hotels on the island were at least twice as many points per night. In retrospect, part of me wishes I would have just gone all out and used all my points to stay up in Waimea. The Kona Beach hotel was perfectly fine overall, just not the resort experience I was looking for.
The photos of the hotel show it on a little beach inlet that looks perfect for snorkeling, with a large pool and extensive grounds. In reality, it’s RIGHT off the main strip in Kona Beach, next to the fishing pier. The pool was an okay size and the grounds were mostly closed off for the luaus. The ground floor was extensive, with plenty of indoor space to look at the exhibits on King Kamehameha or other Hawaiian artifacts. I compare it to the Marriott I stayed in on Waikiki, which seemed much nicer overall in a similar location.
Parking at the hotel was supposed to be $25 a day, but they gave it to me for $10 a day. If you’re staying here, worth asking for a discount for more than one day. The parking lot is accessible via a parking card that you swipe in and out with. There was plenty of parking close to both towers.
As a welcome amenity with the resort fee, I got two free mai tais at the hotel bar. They actually gave me these twice for some reason. Who am I to tell them no? Foodwise, I tried the fish tacos from the hotel bar twice and thought they were outstanding! Two Wandering Soles was also just in Kona, and they were able to play in the pool once they ordered a drink at the bar. So if you’re looking for a low key place to have a cocktail and pool time, the Courtyard might be for you.
Itinerary
I came to the Big Island with a plan to relax – we had just finished end of year at work, had a round of layoffs (which became two rounds by the time I made it to Hawaii), so I was beyond stressed out. My plan was to relax and visit the national park. Well, visit the national park THEN relax. Visit the national parks sites and THEN relax…. We all know that I absolutely failed at relaxing, and instead had five days of all out sightseeing. I needed a vacation from my vacation when I got home!
Day One Wednesday
Originally I was going to fly out on the late night flight, but I decided to say eff it and take the first flight out in the morning so I would be in Kona by early afternoon. This was absolutely the right choice, as the weather when I landed was spectacular. I picked up my rental car at Avis and headed to the Courtyard. Note – you really do need a rental car on the Big Island if you want to see everything. Compared to Oahu, TBI is very different – the west side or dry side of the island is lava field after lava field, while the east side is the dry, rainforest side.
I checked into the Courtyard and headed straight to the poolside bar to get my free mai tais, some food, and sunshine. This was the second absolutely right choice, as I read my book, had some bevvies, and soaked up the warmth. I rounded the evening out with a nice walk down the strip before crashing early.
Day Two Thursday
Woke up early to enjoy a cup of coffee while craning my neck to look at the ocean from my balcony (see image above). I headed out in my rental car to a local hike, stopping at a local grocery store for coffee and breakfast. I picked the Makāula ‘O’oma trail (a relatively flat trail in Honua’ula Forest Reserve). The trail was around 4.5 miles one way out, although I was still getting over a sprained ankle so I only hiked around three miles round trip. The hike itself was quiet and shaded, with plenty of parking.
After the hike, I went to Hapuna Bay, near the Marriott I was not staying at, which came highly recommended by several of my friends as a great beach. It was beautiful but SO WINDY! I could not read because too much sand was blowing in my face. In the end, I gave up and instead heading back to the hotel.
On the way back to the hotel, I called an audible. One of the national parks sites was supposed to be closed, per the news story I saw in the gym that morning, but it looked open! And it was! Kaloko Honokohau National Historic Park is a series of old fishing ponds built for King Kamehameha to keep pools of saltwater fish available for dinner. Now, you can walk down a lava path, or park at a marina and walk down to the beach and see loads of green sea turtles!! Be careful not to disturb the turtles, which enjoy laying on the sun-warmed lava rocks in the shallow beds. I saw so many turtles and loved this little park.
After getting a stamp in my passport, I went to Target to get drinks and snacks. And then I went BACK to Target because I forgot a cord for my Kindle.
Day Three Friday
Originally I planned to head to Volcanoes National Park on Friday, but the kayak and snorkel tour I wanted to take was only available on Friday. I’m a nervous snorkeler, and this trip sounded ideal for me – head out early in a small group, snorkel in a shallow area, with the ability to go back on shore at any time. I booked through Kona Boys, which had a kiosk at my hotel and therefore was the easiest to book.
As it turned out, the trip started about 30 minutes away, so I left at almost oh-dark-thirty in my trusty rental car. First we drove to their main location down the highway in Kealakekua to get fitted for a PFD, mask and flippers. Then we individually drove to the put-in spot. All told there are 7 of us on the kayak tour. We paddled out on an almost flat ocean across small Kealakekua Bay to the Cook Monument. When we reached the monument, we saw only a few other snorkelers around. Our guides helped us pull our kayaks up out of the water, and then we were free to snorkel around the shallow reef.
Kona Boys is one of only a few tour companies allowed to lead tours to this area and beach the kayaks, as they are grandfathered in and pledge to protect the ecosystem. Other kayakers cannot anchor they kayaks or beach them; they have to stay tethered to them as they snorkel. The only other way to reach the bay is a long, dusty hike in full sun from the top of the bluff. No thank you!
The water was never more than ten or fifteen feet deep, and we saw so many brightly colored fish and anemones. I even saw a sea turtle! It reminded me of snorkeling in the Galapagos, except with warmer water and fewer sharks. After snorkeling for about an hour, I surfaced to see SO MANY people around! We took a break to sit and eat lunch around the monument, then our guides helped us back into the water and we paddled back across a still-serene bay. Our guides tried to find some spinner dolphins for us to see (and stay a safe distance from) but none were to be found.
The Kona Boys Morning Magic tour was $199 for adults (plus tip, I tipped $20 each to our two guides), and is Mon/Wed/Fri/Sat/Sun, although if you have enough people they can take a private tour. The tour was set for 3.5 hours in the water, but we took our time getting back and we had closer to 4-4.5 hours total to enjoy the tour. If you don’t care for lunch (honestly the lunch was just okay), then you could take the midmorning tour instead for less money. In my opinion, the early tour was worth the early wake up call to enjoy Kealekekua Bay without the throngs of hikers and other kayakers. Plus, you get to keep your snorkel gear all day – so you can find one of the many other beaches and keep enjoying the water!
After the snorkel tour, I realized I was VERY close to Pu’uhonua o Honaunau National Historic Park, which was ten minutes away. I had read that the VERY popular Two Step snorkeling beach and spot was next door, so expect full parking, but it did not prepare me for the chaotic parking at the national park site. I had to park up a hill and walk down to the historic site. The gate attendant was on lunch, so no one even checked my parks pass!
Pu’uhonua o Honaunau was a royal site for native Hawaiians, and also a place of refuge. If you committed kapu, or broke a taboo or committed a crime, and could make it to this remote location, you would be absolved by a priest and be spared your life. There is also a temple and several fish ponds for the aforementioned royals on the grounds. How do I know that? Audio tour!!! There is a terrific (if buggy) audio tour on the NPS app for this site. I walked around the grounds for an hour or so before the full sun started to do me in (bring a hat and sunscreen everywhere in Hawaii!). There was definitely more to explore here, but I wanted to get some food and get on my way.
On the way home I stopped in a small town that had some vintage stores. I follow a Tiktoker/IGer named CaitConquers who lives on Oahu, and she finds amazing vintage Aloha shirts and dresses all the time at her thrift stores. Instead, I found a bunch of Aloha shirts at vintage (not thrift) prices at Deja Vu Old and New (79-7401 Mamalahoa Hwy, Kealakekua, HI 96750). I did pick up a muumuu and Aloha shirt as souvenirs, though. Across the street was an amazing fabric store straight out of history with bolts upon bolts of aloha fabric.
That night for dinner I walked down to Huggo’s on the Rocks. There was a looooong wait for a table, but since it was just me I could sit at the bar for my meal. I had a great cocktail (too good, really) but the food was fine. Huggo’s came highly recommended, but it was a little too touristy for me.
Day Four Saturday
Saturday was meant to be a rest day, and of course I would pick the only cloudy day for a rest day. I woke up early and enjoyed some free coffee by the pool. There was never coffee any other day, so I’m not sure what was so special about this day? We don’t look free coffee in the mouth. Then I walked to Da Grindz Cafe, again highly highly recommended by my coworker W. Da Grindz was cash only and I do not remember what I had, just that it was not really what I had wanted.
For lunch, I found a vegan restaurant within walking distance, which had some charming outdoor seating. I had some amazing amazing vegan nachos, which a rooster tried to steal from me. It was still cloudy in the afternoon, so instead of pool time, I walked around downtown Kona. I visited the Hulihe’e Palace, the summer palce for royalty, that looks right out over the bay. I had been reading a book about King Kamehameha and other rulers of Hawaii, so it was interesting to see some of their portraits but perhaps not worth $20 (I think what I paid, cash).
Day Five Sunday
Finally National Parks Day!!!!! I got up at the very crack of dawn to leave before daylight to begin the two hour drive to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. I stopped at a great little coffee shop on the way that also had yummy pastries. If you read any Guide To The Big Island, they will all list all the touristy spots to stop at on your way to Volcanoes. I’m here to tell you you don’t have to stop at all of them. Or any of them! The lists will tell you to stop at the Punalu’u black sand beach to see sea turtles (I saw zero), and the Punalu’u bakery to get malasadas (closed when I drove by), or the southernmost point in the US, etc etc etc. If you are taking the scenic route to Volcanoes, stop to your heart’s content. Or not. Whatever is cool.
Those same guides will also tell you to get to Volcanoes super early, before it opens to get a parking spot. Or super late to see the lavaglow at night. I was so stressed about this, I was actually looking for an AirBnb in Volcanoes so I could do both.
Again, let me tell you: You do not need to do this, this is insane. I made such good time, even with the detours, that I got there forty-five minutes before the Visitor Center opened. Instead I filled up my water bottle, ate a snack (brought from Target), and then made my way to see the volcano. Kilauea had begun erupting in November, and then again in January, so when I viisted in February the signs and paths were still clearly marked: Eruption! Thisaway! I walked the path by the Volcano House hotel to the eruption viewing area. On my way I saw no one. At the viewing site, again, no one! I had the place TO MYSELF. It was unreal! All the Pinterests and blogs and reels said to get there so early to beat the crowds. Here I was, crowds beaten!
It wasn’t until the second viewing area that I saw another person – who was also so surprised no one was around. It was fairly windy, and on and off rainy, and also Super Bowl Sunday so perhaps that was keeping people away? Their loss – I saw actual lava from the volcano AND a rainbow! I walked back in the rain/not rain to the Visitor’s Center to finally get my stamp. I also stopped at the Volcano House hotel, which has an amazing viewpoint, plus a coffee bar, restroom, and gift shop. The location can’t be beat.
Volcano sighted, I left the Kilauea Visitor Center to drive around to some other view points and hikes within the park. I made my way through the lava tunnel (meh, honestly), and then as I was walking along a path along the crater rim, saw people hiking across the crater below. Some nice folks explained to me how to get down to the crater to the Kilauea Iki trail. The floor was lava, and I was hiking on it! I drove a few more viewpoints to see more actual, real live spewing lava. It wasn’t as dramatic as the IG posts made it seem to be but: LAVA. REAL LAVA.
One reason I rented a car was to be able to hike and walk around Volcanoes. I felt completely safe by myself in Volcanoes, but if you want a guided tour, many companies offer it. Tours start at $100 for a three hour tour, meeting at the Kilauea Visitor Center in Volcanoes (af link).
I left Volcanoes in early afternoon because I had seen what I came to see (lava) and my ankle was hurting so more hiking was out. I drove back the long way around the big island, through Hilo to the northern edge. It was raining absolute buckets in Hilo and the northern side so I didn’t get out to check out any of the waterfalls. The scenery was stunning though.
For lunch, I stopped at the Fish and the Hog, which, again, came HIGHLY recommended by my friend W. The line was over an hour long but it pays to be a single gal. I got a seat at the bar immediately. The Fish and the Hog serves every manner of brisket and sausage. I got the sampler platter and a cocktail or three. I took at least half my meal to go, plus a large slice of chocolate cake.
On my way back to Kona, I realized I had ONE national park site left to visit, it was closing soon, AND I was right near it!! (I had actually been near it the first day when I went to Hapuna Bay oh well). I drove super fast to Pu’ukohola Heiau National Historic Site which was another temple. Heaiu means temple, actually.
The ranger suggested I walk the trail up from the beach, following the audio guide to learn about the sacred temples that had been here. You KNOW I love an audio tour! The public beach and paths here are popular places to look for whales. I chatted with a few folks who had been spotting whales far off the shore all afternoon. I was sad to leave during the beautiful sunset, but wanted to get cleaned up and walk around Kona for a nightcap.
Well by the time I had driven the half hour back to the hotel it was raining absolute cats and dogs on me. I ended up reading in my hotel room, eating chocolate cake and drinking the Ola Cider I had picked up from Target instead.
Day Six Monday
I lied! This is actually a SIX day itinerary for the Big Island Hawaii. If you clicked through for a five day itinerary, you can stop reading now. I won’t mind. My last day in Hawaii turned out to be another gorgeous, non windy day. I spent a pleasant morning by the beach, walked around Kona for final souvenirs including plenty of Macadamia nuts, and then made a mad dash to the airport when I realized I had forgotten to refill the gas tank.
What didn’t I do in Hawaii
A lot, if you read the ultimate guides. While this itinerary for The Big Island Hawaii is jam packed, Pinterest had a lot of other ideas on things to do. The things suggested that I didn’t go to:
- Farmer’s market to get local fruits: the timing on this didn’t work out for me. There are a ton of small fruit stands as you drive to Volcanoes or through Hilo side
- Mac (macadamia) nut farm: I did looooove the mac nuts I bought as souvenirs and then ate myself, but going to a farm wasn’t high on my list
- Coffee farm: As much as I love coffee, this was also not high on my list
- Chocolate farm: I actually did have tickets to a tour but skipped it for Volcanoes NP day instead
- The southernmost point in the US: the thing to do here is jump off the point into the water. Hard pass
- Pu’naulu Bakery to get pastries: It was closed!
- Snorkeling with Manta Rays: this was on my short list, but I elected for kayak + snorkel trip that morning instead. Two Wandering Soles just went to TBI and said this was amazing. (af link, although any company is probably great!)
- Helicopter tour over Kilauea or Mauna Kea. A lot of tour companies offer these trips. I ALMOST booked one but changed my mind.
- Green Sand Beach: This is a private beach that you can walk down to, or hire a local to take you in their truck. This is apparently very bad for the ecosystem, so I skipped this in the interest of Mother Nature
- This beach or that beach or…: I don’t think you can go wrong with any beach. Hapuna Bay was great if it wasn’t so windy.
Overall, my only regret is that I didn’t rest more! I kept finding more things to add to my sightseeing list, instead of relaxing and enjoying the sunshine.
More resources:
- Two Wandering Soles just finished a trip around TBI with their kiddo. They haven’t posted their guide yet, bu here is the page it should be on when they do. They also said NOT to rent with Thrifty Cars.
- 30+ Things to Do in Kona Hawaii on a Budget by Intentional Travelers
- How to Make the Most of One Day in Hawaii Volcanoes by Valerie & Valise (I mean one day is plenty enough)
- Shaka Maps of The Big Island
- Four Day Itinerary on the Big Island by Amy Fillinger
[…] the gray winter skies of Seattle, especially with five national park sites on the island. You can read a full itinerary of my trip on the blog. If you want a quick snapshot of my trip, read […]